We stayed at Courtyard in Medienhafen. It was cheap, perhaps because it is a business hotel and it was Easter. They gave us a chocolate bunny which we ate on a walk around the other side of the dock. This was the side that our hotel room overlooked, not the architecture of Gehry, Alsop and Chipperfield but the view of cement silos and woods, family boats moored in a scruffy dock. Beyond, in our ninth floor picture window, modern barges slid into frame, travelling the Rhine. Below, a half empty car-park and, nose pressed against glass, the dark glamour of the Hyatt Regency, frequent destination of taxis, occasional limos and rolling matching luggage. Flood plain fields stretched towards the art nouveau villas in Oberkassel our furthest point, walking in the rain. We returned along Hamburger Strasse, straight, long and functional, a contrast to the bourgeois curves of Oberkassel. It was a long stretch passing by a giant skeletal building, broken glass, guttering and boarding, but groups of people still gathered at the station opposite to take the tram. There were working factories nearby and cafés supplying Würste and Brötchen and Coca-Cola. Fresh red graffiti on a new manufacturing unit read USE YOUR BRAIN.